HowTo Network emblem How To: Gaming THE HOW TO CO. — EDITION 10
A single old trading card lying alone on a grey sheet under hard raking flash, its printed halftone breaking up into cyan and magenta, a heavy brass loupe standing beside it.
TRADING CARDS · SPORTS CARDS · BASEBALL CARDS  —  LANE 01 · THE DIAMOND

Baseball Cards

CONDITION IS MEASURED, NOT FELT

This is the oldest lane in the chapter and the one where the copy in your hand matters more than the card on the checklist. Two cards can carry the same photograph, the same year and the same print run, and be separated entirely by a few millimetres of white border. This page is about what that white border converts into — and where it stops converting at all.

· THE CENTERING GAUGE ·

The picture never moves on the press. The cut does.

ONE CARD · FOUR CUTSTHE TWO BORDERS, HEAD TO HEAD · ×650/50 · CENTRED55/45 · PSA 1060/40 · PSA 965/35 · PSA 8WIDE BORDERNARROW BORDERCARD CENTREPRINT CENTREONE CARD · FOUR CUTSTHE TWO BORDERS, HEAD TO HEAD · ×850/50 · CENTRED55/45 · PSA 1060/40 · PSA 965/35 · PSA 8WIDE BORDERNARROW BORDERCARD CENTREPRINT CENTRE
55/45 IS THE WHOLE FRONT TOLERANCE FOR A GEM MINT 10 LEFT · ONE CARD, CUT FOUR WAYS · RIGHT · THE SAME TWO BORDERS AT SIX TIMES THE WIDTH, MET NOSE TO NOSE ·

A centering ratio is not a measurement of the card. It is a measurement of the two white borders against each other. Every state in the drawing is the same card and the same printed area — only the white moves. Every bar in the right-hand panel is the same length, because the total white never changes — only where it sits. At 55/45 one border is about a fifth wider than the other; at 65/35 it is very nearly twice as wide. Those two numbers sit four characters apart on a page and two whole grades apart on a label, and the drawing is in true proportion rather than exaggerated: a tenth of the total border, moved sideways. That is the cliff. It is also why a card can look flawless in your hand and come back lower than you were expecting, because nobody eyeballs a fifth of a border.

· THE SAME CARD · THREE ANSWERS ·

Nobody is grading to the same ruler.

These are the published front tolerances, as each company currently states them. They are not the same numbers, they are not stated the same way, and the grade names do not line up either — a BGS Mint 9 asks for 55/45 in both directions, which is the ratio PSA publishes for the very top of its own scale. PSA also carries a standing footnote that a small variance may be allowed at the grader’s sole discretion, based on the card’s overall eye appeal.

PSA · FRONT AND BACK GEM MINT 1055/45 front · 75/25 back MINT 960/40 front · 90/10 back NM-MT 865/35 front · 90/10 back SUBGRADESnone published
BGS · FRONT, BOTH AXES MINT 955/45 both ways NM/MINT 860/40 or better, both ways GEM MINTis 9.5, not 10 SUBGRADESfour, on the label
SGC · FRONT ONLY 10 PRI50/50 10 GM55/45 960/40 865/35

· PSA STATES 9 AND 8 AS “OR BETTER” · SGC PUBLISHES A FRONT RATIO ONLY · PSA, BGS AND CGC PUBLISH BOTH SIDES · THE BACK NUMBERS BGS PUBLISHES ARE NOT SHOWN HERE ·

A wooden shop display case photographed from directly above, three rows of sleeved grey trading cards laid out in a grid under fluorescent tubes reflected in the glass, one card in the middle row flaring into cyan and magenta ink.
· ONE CASE · ONE PRINTING · NO TWO CUT THE SAME ·
· BECKETT AND CGC · FOUR SUBGRADES ·

Centering was the first of four. Here are the other three.

Centering, corners, edges and surface is Beckett’s published structure, issued as four separate subgrades on the label, and CGC grades to the same four. It is worth being exact about this, because it is repeated everywhere as though it were universal: PSA publishes no subgrades and no four-part framework — its standards describe centering, corners, gloss, staining, focus and edge chipping narratively, inside the wording of each grade. SGC issues a single grade. So this is not what every grader measures. It is what two of them print on the slab.

Extreme magnification of one corner of an old trading card: the board has split along its ply and the cut edge has furred into loose fibres, with a rosette of cyan and magenta halftone dots beside it.
SUBGRADE 02 Corners At arm’s length a corner is a point. Under a loupe it is a bundle of fibres, and it can be soft, furred, or split along the ply while still looking sharp on a scan.
Two trading cards laid side by side on grey blotting board, the left one old with a soft frayed edge, the right one modern with a hard glossy cut edge.
SUBGRADE 03 Edges Put an old card beside a modern one and the two cut edges barely read as the same material. The subgrade is the same word; the damage it is describing is not.
An old trading card photographed from a very low angle in hard raking light, so a crease across the middle of it stands up as a ridge of topography.
SUBGRADE 04 Surface Light straight on hides almost everything. Rake it across the card and a crease stops being a mark and becomes a ridge — which is why a card in hand and a card in a photograph rarely agree.
· THE CUTOFF ·

Everybody uses the word. Nobody agrees where it stops.

The first thing you are told in this lane is that vintage and modern are different games. The second thing you are told is a year, and the year depends entirely on who is talking. Topps contradicts itself on its own website. Beckett draws an operational line for what its vintage service will accept. The hobby press has documented live support for at least four other answers and says outright that no consensus exists. We are not going to resolve it here, because resolving it would mean inventing an authority that does not exist.

TOPPS“Vintage (pre-1980)” in one glossary entry — and “around 1979 or earlier” in another
BECKETT1980 and older, operationally: it is the scope of Beckett Vintage Grading
HOBBYLive support for 1973, 1975, 1980/81 and 1985/86, with no consensus claimed
· WHERE EACH ONE DRAWS IT · 1970 TO 1990 ·
TOPPS
BECKETT
HOBBY

· SAFEST READING · MOST COMMONLY PRE-1980, CONTESTED, WITH DEFENSIBLE CASES FROM 1973 TO 1986 ·

A dirt infield and a freshly chalked white baseline shot very close and very low at dusk, the grit of the clay in focus and the field falling away out of focus behind it.
· THE LINE ·

Every copy carries the same photograph. What separates them is where the blade fell.

· FROM THE ARCHIVIST · IAN ·
“Centering is the one part of a grade you can check yourself, before you spend anything. Everything after it, you are trusting somebody else’s eye — and they publish, in writing, that it is their eye.”
A pair of cotton archivist gloves and a soft goat-hair brush laid on a stack of grey blotting card, beside one sleeved trading card printed in coarse halftone.
IANHow to Know When to Slab a CardREAD →
A loose pile of graded card slabs overlapping on a scratched grey steel bench, the hard plastic catching long white reflections from overhead tubes.
· THE SAME CARD · A DIFFERENT NUMBER ON THE LABEL ·
· STEP-BY-STEP · LANE 01 ·

Read the border first. Then read everything else.

BEFORE YOU BUY
How to Grade-Screen a Vintage CardSOON
How to Tell Vintage From ModernSOON
BEFORE YOU SUBMIT
How to Read a Centering RatioSOON
How to Decide Whether a Card Is Worth SlabbingSOON
FROM IAN · LIVE NOW

· THE FOUR GUIDES ABOVE ARE BEING WRITTEN · BACK TO SPORTS CARDS ·

Pull Rate ▸ PULL RATE · THE COMPANION BOARD Grading a card you already own is one bet. Buying a sealed box hoping to find one is another — Pull Rate shows what is actually in it. CHECK THE BOARD →